MFR vs. Bel-Ray Chain Lube and the Grunge Brush Review Non-sticky, clear chain lube. Leaves no residue, which may help prevent the buildup of grit. Claimed to work on both O-ring and non- O-ring motorcycle chains. Choosing a motorcycle chain lube is a controversial subject. It’s right up there with the continuing controversies about motor oil and motorcycle tires. Everyone has their favorite, and loads of B.
S., urban myth and good old fashioned ignorance obscure the truth. Until there is scientific proof that one motorcycle chain lube lasts longer, works better or reduces friction more than the others, we’re stuck with opinion rather than fact. Owners of shaft-driven motorcycles have their own set of issues to deal with. The perception is that shaft drive means no maintenance, but this has only recently become true with BMW’s R1200GS.
Most shaft drive bikes do require regularly scheduled maintenance. Maybe not as frequently as a chain lube, but spending 6 hours tearing a shaft drive apart to spread 10 pennies worth of Moly lube on a spline with a toothbrush is not my idea of fun. Belt driven motorcycles seem to be the way to go; the belt drive systems are light weight, quiet and clean. But the motorcycle manufacturers seem to be very reluctant to adopt belt drive, for some reason.
So motorcycle chain maintenance procedures will continue to be important in the foreseeable future. Much has been written on the subject, and we won’t rehash the details here, but suffice it to say that a chain should be cleaned and lubricated about every 200 miles or so. Some of the newer motorcycle swingarm designs make changing a chain a very laborious process, so it pays to keep the chain clean and lubricated to help make it last as long as possible.
Oh — and don’t forget that the correct chain adjustment is also crucial to the longevity of your motorcycle’s chain. I have my own routine that seems to work well. I won’t say that it’s better or worse than anyone else’s chain lubrication method, but I’m lazy, and this is about the easiest method I’ve found that seems to do a decent job. When the chain is ready for maintenance, I’ll wait until the next time I go for a ride and when I return, I’ll park the bike over an old piece of vinyl flooring that I keep in the garage.
This helps prevent any of the solvents and lubes from staining the garage floor. The chain should be warmed up for cleaning and for the optimal distribution of the chain lube. I suppose a chain lube could be performed in an emergency without a center stand, but it’s much easier to have the bike perfectly vertical with the rear wheel free to rotate. If your bike doesn’t have a center stand, use a paddock stand on the swingarm to hike up the rear wheel.
We’ve been using the Steel Horse swingarm (paddock) stand in the webBikeWorld garage for a couple of years, and it works great (see the wBW review of the Steel Horse swingarm stand) and keeps the bike very secure during maintenance. Cleaning the Chain Note: See the update article on cleaning a motorcycle chain with Motul Chain Clean, Motorex Chain Clean 611 and kerosene). I usually take some old newspaper (broadsheet, if possible) and lay it up in back of the chain, protecting the wheel and the frame from spray and dirt.
The usual recommendation is to first clean the chain, using a degreaser or Kerosene. It’s claimed that the absolute best way to get the chain clean is to remove it from the bike and soak it in Kerosene, but since most chains use semi-permanent master links, removing the chain is pretty much out of the question. The blocks holding the bristles on the Grunge Brush can be adjusted to fit various chain widths.
WD-40 applied to the chain for initial cleaning. Everyone seems to have a favorite method of cleaning their chain. Besides Kerosene, some recommend using a degreaser or even soap and water. I use use WD-40 as my cleaning agent because it seems to do a good job, it can be sprayed on to the links with a decent amount of pressure, and it displaces water. I must caution you that the use of WD-40 for cleaning motorcycle chains is controversial; some say that it will degrade the lubrication that’s sealed behind the O-rings of the chain at the factory.
It’s hard to know whether this is fact or fiction without some scientific evidence. Using the Grunge Brush. But it sure seems to me that WD-40 must be better than a degreaser, which by its nature is designed to remove grease. I honestly don’t think that the WD-40 gets past the O-rings. If the O-rings are that bad, the chain is probably near the end of its life anyway. UPDATE: See below for more information on using WD-40 on chains! Do some searching and you’ll find that there aren’t anywhere near as many motorcycle chain cleaners available as there are motorcycle chain lubricants.
As we were researching this article, we discovered that some motorcyclists use one of the thin-formula chain lube as a cleaner; more on that later. Applying MFR Chain Lube. We recently found a chain cleaner: Motorex Chain Clean. It’s claimed to be safe for O-ring chains. See the wBWquick review of this product and the recent wBW article “Chain Cleaner Redux: Motul vs. Motorex” Back to the chain lube: If I’m really in a rush, I’ll rotate the rear wheel and clean small sections of the chain by spraying on the WD-40 and wiping the chain down with some paper towels, then spraying on a quick coating of chain lube.
The blocks holding the bristles on the Grunge Brush can be adjusted to fit various chain widths. But to really clean out the dirt and caked-on chain lube, more aggressive action is required. The Grunge Brush (photo above) works great to clean the grit and caked-on grease from the dirty chain. An old stiff-bristled paint brush could probably be used, but the orientation of the bristles on the Grunge Brush are specifically designed to work with motorcycle chains, and the bristles are hefty enough to probably last a long time.
The bristles on the Grunge Brush are located on individual pads, which can be oriented on the handle to fit any type of motorcycle chain. The photo (left) shows how the bristle pads can be located on the tool. The bristle pads are available as a replacement kit in case they wear out. The Grunge Brush makes it easy to clean in and around all four sides of the chain. The combination of WD-40 and the Grunge Brush does a pretty decent job of cleaning up about 95% of the grime.
[Note: See the comment from “R.S.” in the Comments section below regarding the use of WD-40 as a chain lube.] It’s best to work on small sections of chain at a time. Slowly turn the rear wheel to present each section for cleaning. Use a mark or feature on the swingarm as a guide for where to align each section, and make sure there’s a bit of overlap. This helps to ensure that the entire length of the chain will be cleaned.
After I’m done with the initial chain cleaning, I usually take a few sheets of paper towel and wipe down the chain, then re-clean any sections that are still dirty. Another drawback of using WD-40 is that any remaining liquid may interfere with the lubrication properties of the chain lube. But this is always a problem no matter what type of solvent is used to clean the chain. The other problem is that the WD-40 soaked newspaper is not environmentally friendly.
Make sure you at least don’t drip any WD-40 or any other solvent (or chain lube) on the ground. If anyone knows of a solvent that is more environmentally friendly method of cleaning a motorcycle chain, please let us know and we’ll also add the information to this article. Motorcycle Chain Lube Types There are many different types of chain lube, and everyone seems to have a favorite. Motorcycle chain lube is available in two types of formulations: thick and sticky or thin and watery.
One would think that eventually a single ideal type of chain lube formula would evolve, but each new product that comes to market is different than the rest. Who knows how much of it is simply marketing hype, where the manufacturer feels that they must come up with something that looks different just so they can say that it is different? I’ve been in the “thick ‘n sticky” camp for the last few years.
My favorite was Bel-Ray Super Clean Chain Lube, which is one of the thicker formulations. It leaves a white residue that looks something like a white lithium grease. I liked it because it resists flinging off the chain, although it does leave a fine dusting of white sprinkles all over the chain guard and frame during the fist few miles of use. It has a tacky feel, which I thought was important, but I’ve since found that it is sticky enough to allow grit and dirt to cling to the chain, and this has me wondering whether the grit will increase chain wear.
It’s also so thick that I’m not sure that it really gets into the chain’s links, even when the chain is warmed up. It seemed logical that a sticky chain lube is necessary to keep the lubrication on the chain. I’ve tried one or two of the thin-formula lubes in the past, but once you’re used to seeing a nice, thick coating all over the chain, it’s hard to get used to seeing the thin-formula lube drip right off and leave the chain looking unprotected.
So it becomes a matter of faith that the chain lube manufacturer knows what they’re doing and that their product really does meet all their claims. However, we discovered an interesting use of the thin-formula type of chain lube. To get around the problem of what to use as a chain cleaner without removing the grease behind the O-rings, apparently some motorcyclists use the chain lube itself as a cleaner, rather than WD-40, Kerosene or degreaser.
This could be something to consider, although after trying it, we found that the chain lube doesn’t do a very good job of removing grease and dirt. ProGold MFR Motorcycle Chain Lube The impetus for this article was a recent contact with ProGold Lubricants, who sent us a couple of cans of MFR Chain Lube to try. MFR is one of the “thin and watery” type of formulas. MFR stands for “metal friction reducer”, and the manufacturer claims that the product is specifically formulated for use on motorcycle chains.
ProGold claims the MFR Chain Lube “carries MFR molecules to critical chain points, treating the metal itself to provide an exceptionally strong, wear-resistant surface”. We weren’t familiar with the ProGold product line, so we did some research and found out that MFR Chain Lube seems to be one of these well-kept secrets of motorcycling. Apparently, the product is especially popular with off-road motorcycle riders because it isn’t sticky, which helps prevent dirt from accumulating on the chain.
ProGold claims that the “thin-bodied” formula “eliminates the need for thick, tacky lubricants, minimizing the problem of dirt and abrasives sticking to the chain”. Indeed, the formula is very “thin bodied”, with a consistency similar to WD-40. This makes it work as both a chain lubricant and a decent chain cleaner. The ProGold representative also made a very interesting claim. He said “What if I could promise that a conventional chain would last longer than an O-ring (chain) and you won’t have to clean it anymore? Not only would the chain cost less, but it would not steal horsepower.
That is exactly what MFR Chain Lube will do for you! That’s why you won’t have to buy O-ring chains anymore!”. Of course, most motorcycle chains used on street bikes use the O-rings or X-rings (an O-ring with an “X” shaped cross-section), so the rep’s claim may be a moot point. So I took the plunge and I’ve been using the MFR Chain Lube recently. ProGold recommends cleaning all other chain lubricants from the chain before using MFR, which is rather hard to do.
To clean off the old lubricant, you’d have to use a degreaser or WD-40. If you do that, you now have degreaser on the chain rather than lubricant. Perhaps it would be best to start using MFR with a brand-new chain, but even new chains are covered in grease. After using MFR a few times, most of the old lubricant is gone from the surface of the chain anyway. Using MFR Chain Lube takes a leap of faith if you’ve been using one of the thicker, sticky chain lubes.
The product is clear and has very little odor. It leaves no apparent residue on the chain, so it’s not easy to tell if it’s been applied. In fact, the chain looks clean, dry and un-lubricated after the MFR has been applied. Let me reiterate that without a scientific test, it will be impossible to tell whether or not MFR Chain Lube works better or worse than any other type of chain lube. But I’ll continue to use it and report back if I notice anything unusual.
In the meantime, my chain does seem to stay cleaner than it did in the past, probably because there is no sticky residue on the chain for the road grime that would act as an attractor for road grime. More webBikeWorld: wBW Review: MFR Motorcycle Chain Lube Colors: Clear Made In: U.S.A. Sizes: 12 oz. Review Date: October 2004 Note: For informational use only. All material and photographs are Copyright © webWorld International, LLC since 2000.
All rights reserved. See the webBikeWorld® Site Info page. Product specifications, features and details may change or differ from our descriptions. Always check before purchasing. Read the Terms and Conditions! Owner Comments and Feedback See the wBW article “Motorcycle Chain Cleaners Redux” for many comments on lubricating motorcycle chains. From “T.M.” (August 2015): “If you’ve ever used WD-40 on a cycle chain you’ll know why it’s not recommended for cleaning chains.
After cleaning and re-lubricating, the chain runs like its been doused in grit. WD-40 is a penetrating oil. It forces its way , along with any dirt , past any seals and O-rings. Its actually driving grit INTO the rollers of the chain. Stay away from it, even if the result does look good.” From “M.L.” (August 2015): “Halfords recommend GT-85 for bike chains. Smells good and has done a great job on my Shadow ACE chain which I could hardly see for gunge when I bought it.
Don’t know about chemical content, think it contains PTFE, but it is in a spray can. With that and a tooth brush (an old one) it came really clean.” From “B.K.” (August 2013): “I just read an article on chain cleaning with two products compared to typical kerosene. The bit about the WD-40 was helpful as I planned on using that to clean my chain. Any who, I just used soap, water, and a brush to clean my motorcycle chain.
I used just an auto soap that I use to wash my motorcycle and car with. I went with this as to that is the job of the soap is that the soap molecules surround the dirt and oil molecules and then the water washes the soap surrounded dirt/oil molecules away. I have attached pictures (below) that show the before and after. The chain was excessively dirty. Granted it’s not spotless but I had to stop for the night due to it getting dark and the garage being occupied with other projects.
Would you recommend letting it soak in kerosene? I’ve even heard of using lighter fluid as a cleaning/soaking agent. (Cleaning a chain with soap and water) should be done if nothing else is available, due to it being time-consuming and (you) will need to dry off the chain thoroughly then apply plenty of chain lube or wax, whichever one you prefer. Is there one that is superior, wax or lube, to the other one.
I’ve only ever used wax so I don’t know how it compares to lube. I’ve heard mixed things, I’d just like to hear your guys’ input.” Editor’s Reply: It may be more important to keep the chain clean than it is to keep it lubed; modern motorcycle chains have excellent internal lubrication. A “dry” chain lube is best — one that does not leave a sticky residue that will attract dirt and grit.
We have reviewed many different lubes and a couple of our favorites are listed in the Motorcycle Chain Lube Comparison. From “G.F.” (November 2012): “I clean the chain with a soft tooth brush and diesel fuel. Hold a clean rag around chain and rotate tire slowly to wipe off excess diesel. Will be clean to the touch and no fling and being dry will not attract grime. Oil in diesel fuel will soak O-rings and lube for 500 miles.
Have not needed to adjust chain all summer. You need to do this every 500 miles or when chain gets wet. Not a big job, maybe 15 minutes.” Editor’s Reply: Diesel fuel has additives that may harm the O-rings, I’d suggest kerosene instead for cleaning. Diesel and kerosene are not very good lubricants for motorcycle chains however. From “G.”: “Finish Line Ecotech Degreaser came with the Grunge Brush I bought.
It certainly does the job, but whether or not it gets behind the O-rings? I don’t know. The concentrate will make plenty. I just filled a spray bottle, and sprayed the chain as I spun the rear wheel, then scrubbed with the grunge brush. Rinsed it, wiped it off with a rag, then applied my lube of choice. I used the Finish Line Degreaser until it was gone, and just went back to a rag soaked with some good ol’ kerosene.
” From “S.M.”: “Just read your great review of the Kettenmax Chain Cleaner. It’s an interesting rig, but I’m of the same opinion that it’s just as simple and easier to spray on the WD-40 and wipe the thing off with towels/rags. Anyway, the WD-40 thing has been argued for as long as I’ve been participating in online enthusiast forums. If you have a moment, I recommend the following on the Yamaha FZ1 forum.
(The article) contains a response from WD-40 as well as from a chain manufacturer (Tsubaki) in regards to the use of the stuff for cleaning chains.” Another interesting story, this one shows what happens to O-rings after soaking in a variety of cleaning fluids. From “R.S.” sent us some interesting information on the use of WD-40 on motorcycle chains: “Saw your article on using WD-40 for chains and you asked for evidence of potential harm that WD-40 can do, so am attaching a photo.
This photo is of a bearing surface from an airplane. This is a ball and races in a sealed bearing that had been subjected to regular use of WD-40 for a year or two. The grease was NOT cleaned out before taking this photo – there simply is no grease and the brownish tint is really rust. The ball had grooves (visible) and was shaped like a potato chip. The races had not evenly worn (see sectioned edge) and were rutted in spots, although neither shows too well.
We learned that WD-40 is really good for the light uses that it was intended for and that needs to be emphasized. However, it is largely a penetrant, which will do just that! Once it penetrates into the sealed area, it dissolves the petroleum out of the grease, leaving the clay binders. What’s left in the bearing is essentially dirt that cakes up, causing the balls to skid. Without the petroleum, the bearing will also rust.
The reason that kerosene and diesel fuel are still favorites and recommended by the chain people is that while both can be penetrants, they are a thicker petroleum and just what the O-rings are trying to seal against. Of course, gasoline cleans about the same, but with thinner viscosity and better penetrating power. In all honesty, I still use gas to clean (I’m lazy), but don’t beat the bike often, regularly measure for linkage stretch and sprocket wear, and re-lube on every other tank of gas.
” Moral of the story is to not use WD-40 for cleaning motorcycle chains. Does anyone know of a better product that is specifically designed for cleaning a motorcycle chain without dissolving the grease behind the O-rings? NOTE: See the wBW article “Motorcycle Chain Cleaners Redux” for many comments on the WD-40 issue and lubricating motorcycle chains. Other WebBikeWorld Chain Lube Posts wBW Chain Lube Info More wBW ReviewsSee Also: Used Motorcycles Indiana
The economies in procedure ought to be set more than against the initial price. The Diesel motor ship is in lots of ways a much cheaper carrier than the steam boiler ship, and that is a glutton for oil fuel. It can be deserving of take note that more substantial inside combustion oil ships are getting the ocean every single thirty day period.
An oil improve is one thing that each car or truck operator has to offer with at one particular time or another. It may be a schedule occasion, however you may well reward from understanding some specifics and heritage powering motor oil along with the internal combustion engine for which it had been created.
DuPont Teflon Multi-Use Lubricant Very interesting product that is claimed safe for O-ring chains. Sprays out as a liquid, then dries to a waxy touch. Repels water and dirt. Claimed to last 3-5 times longer in friction testing than competitors. NOTE: This product is no longer made in this form. See our updated DuPont Teflon Multi-Use Lubricant review for more information! See Also: DuPont Teflon Chain Saver review I’ve always maintained a high regard for DuPont’s incredible run of products that have, quite frankly, made motorcycling more fun for all of us.
Many people probably don’t realize that products like Cellophane, Nylon, Freon, Teflon, Lycra, Kevlar, Nomex and the motorcyclist’s favorite, Cordura, were all invented and developed by DuPont. Of those, Teflon is probably one of the most widely known and most used products. So when we received a press release announcing DuPont’s Teflon Multi-Use Lubricant, I paid attention. I never considered that DuPont would develop a motorcycle chain lube, but the fine print claims that the lubricant “lasts 3 to 5 times longer in friction testing against other leading brands” and that it’s recommended for use on chains, as it is “O-Ring Safe”.
When I read that, I figured we had to give it a try. It took a while for the DuPont Teflon Multi-Use Lubricant to work its way through the national retail distribution system, but it’s now readily available at hardware stores and bicycle shops. The DuPont division that markets the product is called DuPont Performance Lubricants, which is also responsible for DuPont Krytox, an interesting heavy lubricant available in many forms which, some say, works very well on motorcycle splines.
Where to Buy DuPont Chain Lube Check Reviews & Prices on Amazon Check Reviews & Prices On RevZilla See More: Motorcycle Chain Lube, Motorcycle Accessories, Motorcycle Lubricants DuPont Teflon Multi-Use Dry Wax Lubricant DuPont released the Teflon Multi-Use Lubricant (which I’ll refer to as Teflon chain lube from now on) along with a Teflon silicone spray that includes both Teflon and Krytox and Teflon White Lithium grease, which also reads like it would work nicely for lubing those pesky splines.
We’ve reviewed several different chain lubes recently on webBikeWorld, probably owing to what seems to be a recent preference for chain-driven motorcycles over shaft drive. There are plenty of choices when it comes to chain lubes, and there are nearly as many opinions on which one works best as there are for tires or oil. I think we can now add one more to the list with DuPont’s latest entry. No other motorcycle chain lube that I’m familiar with also states on the can that it’s useful for freeing up rusted bolts, zippers, skate bearings, garage doors and RC vehicles, among others.
I suppose any decent chain lube could be used for those purposes, but not many of them would want to admit it. The Teflon chain lube is mass-marketed as a “do it all” multi-purpose lubricant, but don’t pass it by on the shelf just because it doesn’t have an astronomical price or a chic label (UPDATE: See photo of new label). An 11 oz. can of the stuff retails at around $6.95 and can be found cheaper if you try, which is a pretty good deal for an all-purpose lubricant and chain lube.
Our can is 8 oz. and cost $4.95, but I have not seen an 8 oz. can for sale again, so I’m not sure if we ended up with some type of promotional quantity or what. In any case, the Teflon chain lube is very different than other chain lubes we’ve used. The can has a nice spray top and a separate spray tube. The top of the can has a molded-in clip to hold the spray tube, which is a nice feature, because these things are forever getting lost.
The spray comes out relatively clear and, strange as it may sound, smells to me exactly like a cross between WD-40 and coconut, if you can imagine. It’s very liquid as it comes out, but within seconds the liquid evaporates, leaving a waxy, slippery feeling residue that is supposed to repel water and last a long time. See the photo of my fingers (above), taken within about 20 seconds of spraying the lubricant on my hand.
The liquid is gone and all that’s left is a waxy sheen on my fingers. As I mentioned, DuPont makes some incredible products, so I have no doubt their claims are tested and true. The label does say that the product is a patented blend of “wax based lubricant”, and it is designed to go on wet to penetrate and then to dry and leave the lubricating film. DuPont also claims that it will not attract dirt and grime, which is key to long chain life.
This is a very interesting product, seemingly perfect for lubricating motorcycle chains. We noticed no residue, and since it dries soon after it’s applied, there’s nothing to fling off the chain and all over the back of the bike. The May 2005 issue of Motorcycle Consumer News ran a short article on DuPont Teflon Multi-Use Lubricant and they also raved about it. So next time you’re in the local hardware store or bicycle shop, grab a can and check it out.
I think it’s just become my favorite chain lube. UPDATE (May 2012): DuPont Teflon Multi-Use Dry, Wax Lubricant is no longer being made. See our updated DuPont Teflon Multi-Use Lubricant review for more information! More webBikeWorld: wBW Review: DuPont Teflon Chain Lube List Price (2005): $6.95 for 11 oz. can Colors: Clear Made In: U.S.A. Sizes: 311 gram can Review Date: June 2005 Where to Buy DuPont Chain Lube Check Reviews & Prices on Amazon Check Reviews & Prices On RevZilla See More: Motorcycle Chain Lube, Motorcycle Accessories, Motorcycle Lubricants Owner Comments and Feedback From “B” (May 2012): “I love this stuff.
I switched from gunky dirty lubes to DuPont Teflon Chain Saver when I finally found some at (the only store) in the entire area. I just found out that Lowes carries them all, including both variants in a small 4oz portable container, good for road trips! I recently bought the blue canned variant Multi-Use Lubricant just to try it out, see the difference. However, my observation is opposite of yours, the Multi-Use is definitely thicker than the Chain Saver.
Maybe things have changed in the last few years since your review was written. Either way, both are great! My chain, tire, etc. stays a lot more clean. Editor’s Reply: We just got a new batch, apparently they did change the formula and we’ll report on it soon. From “M.D.” (5/10): “A friend sent me your review of the DuPont general purpose lube (blue can) about the time I was replacing my chain.
I ride a 2002 FZ1 that had developed some stiff links at only 15,000 miles. I ordered a 520 conversion chain with new sprockets, steel front and aluminum rear. And thoroughly cleaned everything with kerosene before installing. I then thoroughly coated the entire chain initially with DuPont general purpose lube and have just applied a periodic light coat since. I have been very pleased at how clean the chain has stayed and has required minimal chain adjustments.
I typically turn the chain adjuster 1/6th of a turn every 6,000 miles+ to maintain optimum chain slack since changing chain lubes. I currently have over 35,000 miles on the chain and more impressively on the aluminum rear sprocket. I ride in rain, winter salt and the occasional dirt roads. The chain is nowhere near its where limits, and I still have no stiff links. I changed the front sprocket at 30,000 miles for a gearing change, but It was beginning to show some wear.
I have attached a picture (below) of the aluminum rear sprocket that I took after 30,000 miles. As you can see it is showing almost no wear at all. I expect at least 50,000 miles from this chain and aluminum sprocket. If anyone had made a claim like that earlier I would have laughed at them. After reading your review of the new DuPont Chain Saver (review) I bought a can to try. The chain did not stay as clean as with the general purpose lube so I switched back.
I saved the Chain Saver for longer trips (over 400 miles).” From “J.G.” (23/10): “Further to your evaluation of Dupont Teflon Multi-use Dry Wax Lubricant. I have used it here in New Zealand on my Suzuki DR650, and have been thoroughly happy with its performance, both on-road and off-road. In fact in just over 14000 kms of use, with judicious application after most rides, the chain has never required adjustment.
However the downside is that the can that retails for U.S.$6.95 your way sells for N.Z.$32 over here or $23 in your money! Trying to get a satisfactory response regarding the price differential from DuPont or the importer/distributors over here is like extracting teeth or pushing the proverbial uphill! I guess we at the bottom of the world down here are regarded as ” ripe for the plucking “.
DuPont also put out another chain lube incorporating lithium grease. It’s supposed to be for lubing chains as well. Are you gentlemen familiar with the product? Anyway, keep up the good work.” Editor’s Reply: Some countries have duties and taxes on imported products and this may be the case with this product. Or, perhaps it is being unofficially imported and the distributor has to charge higher fees to make up for shipping costs.
Bottom line is that there may be many reasons why the product is so expensive in New Zealand, so I wouldn’t blame it totally on DuPont. From “BJC” (9/09): “I’ve been using the DuPont lube exclusively on the most recent chain on my 80,000-mile V-Strom DL1000, and there are finally a couple stiff links, so I checked my records to find I have over 28,000 miles on it. At home I use the spray can; on trips I carry the small blue squeeze bottle.
Very good stuff!” From “B” (4/09): “I first started using white lithium grease spray which is a big mess, now I use the DuPont multi use on my 08 Vulcan 500 no mess does not attract dirt and if some gets on the rim it polishes off nicely.” Other WebBikeWorld Chain Lube Posts wBW Chain Lube Info More wBW Reviews